Happy New Year everybody! Want to know how our Christmas in China was? It was the best of Christmas in the US, without the stress and commercialism and (cough cough) religious meaning. It was great!
First, let me clarify that Christmas is NOT a holiday in China. This is an officially atheist country, and Chinese cannot go to church without a Western passport. All businesses are open, and nobody takes the day off. Chinese people do not put trees in their homes, decorate, or personally celebrate in any way. However, in Beijing, Hong Kong and I’m sure Shanghai, the spirit of Christmas is in the air. The holiday is called "Shen-dian-jie" which means, saint’s birthday festival. But guess which saint they think Christmas celebrates? Santa Claus! Yes, they have it nailed. Santa’s image is in all restaurants and shops, and many restaurant and bar staff don floppy jaunty santa caps. It is a secular celebration of light during the dark days, warm feelings in the dead of winter, and non-stop Christmas soundtracks from Bing Crosby to Bruce Springsteen, just as our Northern Hemisphere pagan forebears intended it to be even before the birth of Santa.
I have an American buddy who was lamenting that Christmas isn’t the same, that decorations are half baked, etc. But she is pregnant on bed rest and doesn’t get out much, I’m afraid, because it was plenty festive for me. I went to the big flower market and found a bunch of Christmas deco stalls catering strictly to Westerners. I bought a bunch of ornaments, probably full of lead but so cute. Pine trees don’t smell here, but I got a little live tree for $25 and it really brightened up the house. The boys and I had a little party with some of their friends. My intention was to recreate our Seattle ritual of decorating "gingerbread" houses made of graham crackers with frosting and candy–something we did at their school right before the break.
Stupid me underestimated the degree of technical difficulty in the construction of these houses (it brought back memories of a remodeling disaster in San Francisco). We ended up with one-dimensional graham cracker houses, plenty of frosting and candy, and happy boys.
Christmas Eve was a festive affair, celebrated at Garth and Molly Forte’s house (the preggers one), Beth and Will Knight (also a Microsoft family), "wo de poa poa" Jane (Forest’s mom) and all the kids. Highlights (for me) were: Molly’s yummy tortilla soup, which made me think of my family eating pozole on xmas eve this year, a clothes maker fitting Forest with his surprise cashmere hoody, catching Carlos with his ear glued to the speaker blaring Jackson 5’s "Santa Claus is Coming to Town", trying on Beth’s floor length mink coat and thinking of the I Love Lucy quotes Joanna, Gloria and Juanita would be throwing down if they were there. Lowlights included bursting into tears trying to assemble the play kitchen at 11:30 at night.
Christmas day was a blast, very casual and lazy, and that night we bundled up and trundled out to a Mongolian Barbecue extravaganza, complete with camel rides, ritualistic goat carving, Tuvan throat singing to a disco beat, Chinese wine and dinner in a yurt with about
5 other families. See our pics online!
After sightseeing with Jane a few days after Christmas, we all went to glamorous Hong Kong to meet up with Adam and Megumu Brownstein (in Tokyo for holidays), Adam and Jess Dawes (in Malaysia for December) and swooned over the fashionable people, trendy and swanky stores, gorgeous skyline, and rang in the New Year at the Inter-Continental overlooking fireworks reflecting in Victoria Harbor. Inter- Continental indeed.
Some of us are looking forward to getting back to our little routines. The boys actually miss school, anxious to see friends. I’m happy to get back to my Mandarin lessons. Unfortunately for Forest, his routine involves lots of travel, and he booked a last minute flight to the US to do some work at MS HQ. He’ll be off to Japan and Tokyo after that. Then we’ll start getting ready for the next big
holiday– Goodbye pig, hello rat! No, not the US Presidential Elections. Chinese New Year!