We just got back from a lovely spring break in Zapallar Chile visiting family. We took a Omni VR Camera Rig with us and spent a day shooting the areas along the Zapallar-to-Cachagua coastal area and upon my return and review of the footage i’m really excited by how it looks. I’ve got my 15 year old cineast son working on building a ~5m piece for VR which we’ll master at 8k+ using Pixvana’s software.
For now i wanted to post a few photos and production stills:
Just getting going with the equarectangular 4k elements… really exciting project.
Here’s a rough play-out of all shots:
And here’s an extremely rough, early version of the footage. Carlos will be doing a proper edit, sound design, effects, titles, giving it narrative cohesion, etc. Then we’ll master at full 8k and publish with Pixvana’s SPIN Studio. But here’s a preview of work in progress:
There are two high quality hotels in Zapallar, both open year round. Each is small–so if you are visiting during a holiday weekend or in the high-season of Dec 26th to Feb 28th, plan a few months ahead. Other than hotels, there are many houses for rent year round for short stays of just a few days, or for an entire month.
Both of these hotels are good options, but if you are staying for a week or longer, consider renting a house.
Hotel Casa Zapallar
This boutique hotel in Zapallar center of town has just 6 rooms. The hotel is very comfortable and romantic, but does not offer ocean views. It is about a 15 minute walk to the beach/coast, and just 5 minutes from the center of town where there are some restaurants and markets.
Hotel Isla Seca Zapallar
This boutique hotel in Zapallar is a bit larger than Casa Zapallar, and has more amenities including a pool, larger rooms, and a restaurant. It offers some ocean views. It is farther from town, about a 20 minute walk to the beach, and a 30 minute walk to the center of town.
The two most well known restaurants in Zapallar are “El Chiringuito” and “El Cesar”. Both serve excellent seafood and Chilean specialities and have full bars. While the Cesar and the Chiringito have by far the best atmospheres as far as restaurants go in Zapallar, they are also the most pricy. But either serve as a highlight to a day visit to town, accompanied by a stroll along the seashore before lunch to work up an appetite.
Cesar Restaurant
This restaurant is lovely and was once the only game in town–the more highly regarded Chiringuito is just a 10 minute walk away and has taken a lot of the energy away from Caesar’s. However, it is really hard to beat the immediacy of eating right on the beach, especially if you are watching your kids or other members of your group who might be coming to and from the beach during your meal!
Food is excellent and service is better than at El Chiringuito, and they have both indoor or outdoor seating. If you are in town for more than 1 meal, definitely have a meal at each of these two superb restaurants.
Chiringito Restaurant
Chiringuito restaurant is the best food and by far the most astonishingly beautiful setting + view of the restaurants you’ll find anywhere on the central Chilean coast. Reservations an absolute must on weekends and anytime during high-season in the summer. Fastastic seafood fresh caught by local fisherman.
New York Times journalist and travel writer Eric Lipton visited this restaurant and reviewed favorably in his article covering the region, read the New York Times article here.
Cachagua is just 3km south of Zapallar, mostly characterized by thatched-roof houses and it’s long, expansive beach. The flat beach is one of the popular places for a nice walk, perfect for taking off your shoes and walking. Going to the north from the beach is an easy walk on a rambla that takes you past an island with colonies of Humboldt penguins and on to the picturesque little beach of Las Cujas.
Cachagua has an equestrian club where polo matches are played during the summer and at times during the winter. There is a beautiful seaside golf course; be prepared for quite a trek up and down the fairways. It’s beach is one of the popular surfing spots in the area. And there is always the normal activities at the beach.
Maitencillo & Marbella
13km south of Zapallar is the village of Maitencillo. It is spread along a coastal road, perfect for bicycling except maybe during the crowded summer afternoons. Maitencillo has many restaurants, fish markets, and, in summer, craft fairs. On the hill above Maitencillo is the resort of Marbella, complete with a club house of Mexican architecture and a 27-hole golf course.
Horcon
32km south of Zapallar is the coastal town of Horcon. This very colorful little fishing village is a little bit lost in time. There are colorful buildings, colorful boats, colorful people. It is a wonderful place to go for people-watching, for the grizzled, old faces of the fishermen are precious. During the summer, the is an artesan fair at the far end of the town.
Just south of Horcon is the secluded little beach of El Tebo. Follow the signs out of Horcon towards Cau Cau. You’ll pass the good seafood restaurant Los Duendes and there is also a restaurant on the beach at El Tebo.
Papudo
11km to the north of Zapallar is the township of Papudo. Less exclusive than Zapallar or Cachagua, Papudo is a small and unpretentious seaside town with great walks on an expansive beach. Many times when Zapallar has a cloudbank hanging over it, one can find sunshine just down the road in Papudo. The town has many restaurants; the restaurant Casa De Cesar on the main square is a good one for seafood.
La Ligua
30km north and inland of Zapallar, La Ligua is a small town whose real claim to fame is the dulces (sweets) baked and sold there. You will see woman waving white towels along the road; they are selling the Dulces de La Ligua. The town is also a great place to go to buy clothing (sweaters), inexpensive and of good quality. The neighboring town of Valle Hermoso has even a better, less expensive selection of clothing. The town of Placilla just towards Zapallar has a good seafood/shellfish market (on the left after turning next to shop Don Nico). The seafood is good, and the prices are lower than Zapallar and even Maitencillo. You can get frozen shellfish that you can’t easily find elsewhere, like Camerones Equatorio (Equatorian Shrimp that are bigger than Chilean national shrimp).
La Campana National Park
La Campana National Park is 80 km southeast of Zapallar. The park has a wilderness habitat that is considered exceptional for its biodiversity. This park is dominated by the La Campana peak, 1900m high, popular with climbers, and by one of the last remaining Chilean Palm forests. There are two entrances to the park; one from the north at Ocoa off highway 5, and the other from the south at Olmue.
From the Ocoa side of the park is where you will find the large Chilean Palm forest, one of only 2 forests left in Chile with wild palms. There are over 60,000 palms in the forest. A sight to behold.
There are several hikes to choose from this side of the park. There are hikes of 15-30 minutes (each way) through a landscape dotted with Quisco Chileno cacti to reach view points where the palm forest is spreads before you. There is also an all day hike to a waterfall as well. All hikes having the towering La Campana Peak towering over them. These hikes require that you bring sufficient water and sunscreen, and can be quite hot in summertime.
Entering through the Olmue side of the park, you have the opportunity to take hikes in dense forests of natiive Chilean trees, but the main attraction on this side is the hike up to the top of La Campana Peak. This is the same hike Charles Darwin took on one of his trips through Chile. The hike is 5 hours to the top, about 7 km; the last third of the hike is more of a climb than a hike. Upon reaching the top, one is afforded a view of the Andes range to the east, including the Aconcagua (the third highest mountain in the world), and a sweeping view of the Pacific Ocean to the west.
Viña del Mar & Valparaiso
Viña Del Mar and Valparaiso are seaside cities, side-by-side, about 72 km south of Zapallar. Viña is one of the popular seaside destinations for tourists, Its beaches, along with those of Reñaca and Con Con to the north, attract people internationally as well as Chileans. While definitely bigger and more crowded than the Zapallar area, it offers things like the casino and other more varied nightlife. The Viña Del Mar Festival is a big thing in summer, attracting such people as Elton John.
Neighboring Valparaiso is a hillside city that reminds one of San Francisco, only very poor. Once the capital of Chile, it is the busy main port for international shipping and the base port for the Chilean navy. The downtown architecture is varied; take note of the building where they have constructed a new building up through the center of an old historical one. One restaurant recommendation in Valparaiso is Puerto Vieja near Plaza Echaurren.
On the hills above downtown Valparaiso, mainly on Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion, redevelopment is along the lines of small restaurants, boutiques and small hotels. One can access the cerros (hills) by going up and down on the old funiculars (ascensors); these trams are spread along the base of the hills. Go up one, walk the streets of the hills, and take another down.
Many of the buildings on the hills don the creativity of the local artists. Go to the area for the day or spend a night. A side trip to the Casablanca area offers the opportunity for wine tasting. The old whaling town of Quintay is south of Valparaiso.
If one would rather take a mountain hike as an alternative to one of the recommended coastal hikes, there is a well established trail along the ridgetop between Zapallar and Cachagua. It is referred to by the locals as El Tigre, the Tiger.
The trail actually begins on the Zapallar end at the lowest point on the eastern ridge (where the sun comes up), between the communication towers on the right and the Higuera mountain on the left. One can access the trailhead by taking a pathway that begins at the uppermost point of the pueblo housing developed on the right as you enter Zapallar on the road from Cachagua. On this traverse of the ridge to the El Tigre trailhead, one gets magnificent panoramas of the township of Zapallar.
The formal beginning of the El Tigre trail is not hard to identify.
One of the surprising things about the trail is that it is relatively flat. This makes for an enjoyable walk as you take in the vistas of Cachagua laying there down by the ocean.
The second most surprising thing about this walk is lushness of the vegetation. Even in the summer of a drought year, you have been magically transported from the dryness of the surrounding areas into a green oasis. One almost expects to see Trazan swinging by on the vines hanging from the trees.
About 2 hours into the hike, at a fence gate looking like this and where a trail heads downhill to the right, one has multiple choices on how to proceed. Take the trail down the hill towards the coast to arrive in Cachagua. The way down takes you through people’s horse pastures and along dirt roads. Always keep heading downhill, towards the sea, and you will arrive in Cachagua in about another 2 hours. Alternately, you can turn around at this point and head back on the trail to Zapallar. The third option is to go through the fence gate, and take that path, which will bring you to Catapilco in a day or two.
Whether you end up in Cachagua or Zapallar, the first order of business is a big glass of cold water.
The hike between Zapallar and the cemetery north of town is a wonderful coastline walk, partly a stroll on a rambla (developed pathway) and partly boulder hopping. The walk will take about an hour, an hour and a half each way. One can be dropped off at the cemetery and do the walk one way back to Zapallar.
For the purposes of this discussion, we will assume hiking from the cemetery back to Zapallar. To begin with, take some time walking through the cemetery. Many of the old Zapallar families have family plots here and their ancestry dates well back in town’s history. Many of the personalities responsible for the development of Zapallar reside in this cemetery.
From the oceanside of the cemetery, a rambla begins that forms the first portion of the hike. This rambla follows the coastline, winding its way between the ocean crashing on the granite shore and the stately homes that have sprung up in this area.
Mid-point in the rambla, there is a rock out-cropping jutting into the sea that has interrupted the construction of the pathway. At this point, you have to scramble up the hillside to get past this obstacle. Dropping down the other side to rejoin the rambla, one finds a beautiful swimming hole frequented by the locals.
At the end of the rambla begins the portion of the trip boulder hopping down the coastline (at this point you could scramble up the hillside to the road and walk the road back to Zapallar). The walk is generally pretty staright-forward and easy, although there are a couple spots where one has to explore to find the best way past an obstacle.
Constantly on this walk there are beautiful views of the coastline and the ocean waves that make this area so spectacular. One can spy dolphins out the the water, and if really fortunate, maybe even a whale.
The last portion of the trip is the anticipation of getting closer and closer to Isla Seca. The portion of the hike winding your way through boulders terminates at Isla Seca. From this point on, one can take the Rambla back into the Zapallar pueblo.
The hike begins at Mar Bravo. Take the pathway that leads down from the park and head south along the coast. To avoid the boulder hopping portion of the trip, you can walk down the road fronting the park and pick up the Rambla portion of the hike just past El Pangue forest (take the first right after the forest to reach the trailhead going down to the Rambla). You might see anything on this trip, maybe even a helicopter or two. This short rambla at the beginning of the trip only last 10 minutes or so, and then the boulder hopping begins.
This blazing of your own trail through the rocks brings your mind back to the days of yore when this was a common mode of walking. Take one way around a large granite cropping only to be obstructed and have to backtrack a little to find another way. It is all very doable, with only a couple spots where fencing of people’s yards have made it difficult to get by. The enjoyment of the scenery is only topped by the feeling of accomplishment as you work your way down the coast.
El Pangue Beach, about mid-way on the hike to Cachagua from Zapallar
At the end of your boulder hopping you come to the secluded little beach of Pangue. Until recently this beach was almost private because the only way to access it was by scrambling over the rocks. Now a rambla begins of the far side of the beach. This has made it easier for people to get to this beach, although it is still very much unused. A branch of the rambla goes up to the coastal road just past Pangue; this is where you will pick up the trip if you have hiked the road from Mar Bravo. Once past Pangue and onto the rambla, the going is much easier and relaxing.
Keep your eyes peeled, in the water below and in the surrounding rocks, for a glimpse of a sea lion, or even a Chungungo (or nutria), the sea otter in this area. The beauty of the coastline is ever present.
The next little bay you come to is Las Cujas, with a little sandy beach and a water that is easy to get into. This beach is also accessible from a parking lot above just near park/plaza in Cachagua.
Continuing the easy walk to Cachagua Beach takes you by many more homes, some old, some new, built along this coastline.
As you pass by the Isle de Penguinos (Penguin Island), take a moment to look for the little Chilean penguins that inhabit this portion of the coast (well, at least this island).
The end of this walk leaves you on Cachagua Beach. The lengthy, level hike down this beach is left for another day.
Every Christmas Eve, Santa makes sure to stop in Zapallar. He arrives in Zapallar by boat rather than by sleigh. His boat is brightly decorated with multi-colored balloons. Santa sails in on the horizon and navigates his way around the bay to the beach, settling in just outside the waves. At that point, Santa distributes his gifts, as the balloons are released into the sea. The young ethusiastically swim out to gather their presents. The older brave the cold water to get those treasured prizes for the ones that cannot yet swim.
The joy of returning to beach, balloon in hand, is undeniable. All the children savor the moments before returning to their home to see what Santa has left them under the tree.
Mar Bravo is the spot in Zapallar where the Pacific Ocean meets up with the granite of the coastline in spectacular fashion. The township maintains a park which has become the focal point of the Mar Bravo experience. The park overlooks the ocean coastline and Cerro de la Cruz. During the summer, the kids can get a burro ride in this lovely setting between their romps in the playground. Mar Bravo is the premier place in Zapallar to view the sunset, and many a Zapallarino walk there to capture the sun going down into the Pacific, hoping to catch that last glimmer of green, indicating a good sunny day to follow.
Of course, the Mar Bravo is all about the waves. On good wave days, one cannot imagine a more spectacular display of water meeting rock. The waves here can be truely enormous. Take care to not approach too near the shoreline, for one slip or one big wave can mark the end of your enjoyment.
Zapallar invites visitors to just state at the ocean vistas which abound throughout the town and in most hotels and rental property homes. The Pacific Ocean is breathtaking. Hear the sound of the waves, the smell of local flowers and the ocean, and take in the vibrant sunsets.
“La Rambla”, a very well maintained coastal path with bridges, paved sections, and incredible views of the ocean. This path stretches (with some incomplete sections) from the cemetery to Cachagua’s beach–nearly 4hrs of marvelous walking end-to-end!
The coastline has a paved beach/coast walk-way called “la rambla” which can be walked for miles in both directions north and south of town. At times the rambla is not complete, but safe passage along the shoreline is achieved by walking over various boulders. If you start at the Cemetery to the north of town, you could walk for ~4hrs south through Zapallar town, to Cachagua, and onwards along the Cachagua beach until it reaches an impassable tide.
Here are some of the highlights of any visit to Zapallar.
Complete the partial rock-hop-hike from Zapallar all-the-way to Cachagua, or a partial hike from the rambla north from Cachagua Beach, passing Isla de Penguinos (Penguin Island) to the small beach of Las Cujas. Continue past this beach to get to the beach of El Pangue. This is a world-class walk with unparalleled beauty.
Hike the ridgeline between Zapallar and Cachagua on the El Tigre trail.
Once you have been in Zapallar for a while, go to the Hotel Isla Seca and look at the fasinating old pictures of Zapallar hanging on the walls. There are also old pictures in the hallways of the Municipalidad.
Driving directions from Santiago to Zapallar – Drive time approx. 2 hours <distances below are approximate>:
Follow Route 5 North to Puchuncavi turnoff <117km or 70 miles, about 2km past La Calera>. Look to the right at KM signpost 50 and on a clear day you will get your first look at the Aconcagua, the 3rd tallest mountain in the world. If you want to eat along the way, stop at Torofrut (around the 90km mark)
Take road over pass west from Nogales towards Puchuncavi until end <27km or 16 miles>
Turn right at end onto coastal road north to Zapallar <23km or 14 miles>
Turn left into the town of Zapallar
NOTE: If driving from the airport or Santiago, be sure to have at least CH$20.000 pesos for gas, road tolls…
Alternately, taking about 3 hours instead of 2, one can drive from Santiago to Valpariaso/Vina Del Mar, and then take the road up the coast to Zapallar. While doing this drive, one can stop in the Casablanca wine area for some tastings or tour the port city of Valparaiso
Travel to Zapallar by bus: The bus system is good in Chile (TurBus). You can get a bus from the airport to downtown (out the airport doors to the right) and then a bus from downtown to Zapallar. Be sure to get a direct bus (more direct) from downtown instead of one that makes all the stops. It is about a 3 hour bus ride from downtown Santiago.
Isla Seca (“Dry Island”) is the granite outcropping that defines the end of the bay on the right. A popular walk for all is the jaunt around the bay along the rambla to Isla Seca.Leaving the beach, the Rambla begins its winding around the bay.This bench at the beginning of the walk is a wonderful place to sit and take in the beach activity, or to simply read a good book.The path contiues to a castle-like overlook of the beach and bay.
The stone mosaic there is like many seen around Zapallar, for that artisan has been very popular in the community.Typical of the entire network of the Rambla, benches along the way provide an opportunity to sit a spell and enjoy the magnificent vistas.On the walk to Isla Seca, you pass beneath some of the stately Zapallar homes that grace the bay’s shorelineMuch of the year the walk to Isla Seca is in full bloom.
Zapallar is noted for its vegetation, for the mild climate and unique bio-zone allow the florishing of a wide range of varieties of flowers, plants, and trees. The trail leaves you at the doorstep to this magnificent rock jutting into the sea.The climb to the top of Isla Seca is not much of a challenge. The easier path is around to the right, but you’ll see the younger, more agile ones going up the face. Reaching the summit rewards one with panoramic views of the bay and mountainsThis point is the beginning/end of the hike between Zapallar and the cemetary. The rambla continues just a short way past Isla Seca. and from then on it is boulder hopping your way up the coast.Take your time walking back and further your intake of these wonderful vistas.
Cerro de la Cruz is the peninsula that graces the left side of Zapallar bay. It is characterized by the lone pine tree that sits upon the top of the hill, a sight that has grace the Zapallar landscape since the early days of the town’s foundation. This is a great place to walk for an hour or two, awarding yourself with magnificent vistas and a bouquet of wildflowers.
The beginning of the trail is located at the base of the hill, behind the Chiringito Restaurant. There resides “La Gruta”, a grotto housing an image of the Virgin of Lourdes. Begin your walk on the cerro by taking the short climb to the right. Once up on the hill, your have a choice of walking three different routes: left, right, center.
The trails to the right give you panoramic views of Zapallar Bay.
The trails to the left yield vistas of the coast from Zapallar towards Cachagua and points south, Maitencillo, Horcon, Quintero, and even Valparaiso.
The trail in the middle takes you to the top of the hill and that lone pine tree, where there is the cross that gives the peninsula its name, as well as an expansive view in all directions.
Many paths criss-cross the back of the island. Different wildflowers grace the hillside during various times of the year.
At the very back of the island is a large granite outcropping. Before this giant rock is a crevice where the ocean charges through. The splash created by the on-rushing sea is like a blowhole, and refered to by the locals as simply “El Caleton”.
One can traverse this outcropping and reach the edge of the Pacific Ocean. While the vista is worthwhile, take care when scrambling over the rock and beware of getting too close to the edges.
For a different collection of vistas, take an different route back than the one you entered on.
The Rambla is a pedestrian walkway circumventing the bay, from Isla Seca on the right completely bay around the corner on the left to Mar Bravo. Unbothered by automobiles, it is the favorite spot to stroll in Zapallar: morning, noon, or night. The pathway to the right of the parking lot to Isla Seca is described with that landmark, while this naration will take you to the left all the way to Mar Bravo.
The goodie cart at the beginning of the rambla is a favorite of the kids. Be sure to try the cuchufils. This little fellow from neighboring Horcon has been selling his cute little animal caricatures for years.
The restaurant Cesar’s spot on the rambla beachside has to be one of the most lovely settings for dining anywhere. Cesar’s has evolved from a few seaside tables beginning in 1934 to the present day restaurant. It will be difficult to get a table there during lunchtime in the summer.
The well-constructed walkway traces the coastline around the left of the bay.
Typical of the Rambla, there are benches along to way, to sit a spell and take in the beautiful vistas, in this case the colorful fisherman’s boats floating in the harbor.
The pathway takes your past the working harbor of Zapallar. Thoughout the day the fishermen get in their boats and head off to sea to try their luck at catching your seafood and shellfish. Much of that is served in the Chiringito Restaurant, which has evolved over the years from a small fish stand into a destination spot. Harbor activities have been expanded to include kayak rentals and scuba diving trips.
At the harbor, the fishermen are there to sell their catch (that is the delicious congrio hanging there). There are also stalls where local artisans sell their wares.
Continue on through the Chiringito parking lot to pick up the rambla again and continue on to the Mar Bravo. The vistas of the bay, Cerro de la Cruz, and Mar Barvo await.
This section of the Rambla ends at the Mar Bravo. Here you can take in the sights of magnificent sunsets and spectacular displays of waves crashing on the rocks. This would also be considered the beginning/end of the Zapallar to Cachagua walk.
The beach of Zapallar, nestled in the bay, is one of the most picturesque you will find. The clean beach of yellow sand is lovely. The water a clear, deep blue. The waves entering the bay and crashing on the shore. The founding fathers of Zapallar were right in preventing the roads that were laid out to go towards the sea, so today automobiles around the bay are limited to only two parking areas. The setting is truly unspoiled.
Late evening on a spring day Zapallar
The beach is usually an active place, with people from all over the world sunning, talking, playing paddle board, or simply reading a good book or taking in the vista. A collage of colorful umbrellas protects those who have got too much sun, or want an afternoon nap.
Of course, there is the ocean. Getting into the ocean takes a little mental preparation, for the Humboldt current makes the water cold and the waves can be big enough to be a challenge. Some only get in for a quick dip to cool off, but for those who can brave the elements, the waves are usually very good fun for frolicking and body-surfing. The hardy swim out to a floating raft, the ‘balsa’.
The Cesar restaurant literally sits on the beach, where one can eat seafood and shellfish, as well as getting a pisco sour, the traditional Chilean cocktail. The kids are attacted to the candy kiosk adjacent to the restaurant. Umbrellas and beach chairs can usually be rented next to the candy kiosk.
When the waves are crashing off Isla Seca, it can be spectacular. In winter, you often find this pristine beach totally to yourself.
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